House of Billiam is a British clothing line taking classic, British, suit materials and creating unsuit-like clothes for men and women. Founded by designer Thomas Bird and pal Dan Levy, House of Billiam brings traditional, British suiting fabrics and cutting techniques to bear on an item at the centre of modern Britain and urban fashion. The hoodie is society’s newest staple item of clothing: debated up and down the land, but worn by all. Bird cuts, sews and stitches each hoodie by hand from his London studio, and House of Billiam’s exquisite materials are acquired from markets and specialist stores from all over the UK. These beautiful fabrics are bought in very limited quantities, meaning each House of Billiam item is very often the only one of its kind. House of Billiam is currently being worn by Klaxons drummer Steffan Halperin, and already boasts international clients in Paris, Germany, Sweden, the US, Spain and Tokyo. House of Billiam’s 2009 launch coincides with that of the 3rd series of Channel 4 drama Skins, for which a range of hoodies were created for new character JJ.
I was able to interview founder and designer of House of Billiam, Thomas Bird, to discuss the brand, their intentions and his thoughts on UK fashion.
“the use of a hoodie came about because it is, or at least has reached, a classic item. It is an essential in so many peoples wardrobes it seemed like the most obvious item to do something original with”
Read on for the full interview..
French BMX Flatland Rider, Raphael Chiquet. wearing House of Billiam
Bespoke, Hooded suits… quite a combination you got there, how did this idea come about?
I think the idea came from a want to create something that could be seen as a specifically British streetwear. Each element of what we do has a certain purpose to it. The use of a hoodie came about because it is, or at least has reached, a classic item. It is an essential in so many peoples wardrobes it seemed like the most obvious item to do something original with.
The bespoke thing first came about for a few reasons. It allowed me to start the business small and let it grow organically, it allowed me to make one of one pieces specifically for people and collaborate with people through the hoodie. I also have a hatred of the Americanisation of sizing, that I am put into a box of S, M, L or XL, why should casual clothing fit you like a binbag? So that is why it is done to the three measurements of chest, waist and sleeve.
I made them reversible because it allows you to have two pieces of clothing for the price of one. It allows the customer some versitility.
What is the process in which you make your hoodies?
The process starts with me scouring the country to find vintage and small batches of British suiting fabrics and linings. From this the customer picks a combination of outer and lining fabric and gives me the measurements and that is basically it. The pattern is drafted straight onto the fabric and cut out. The yoke is pleated and hand stitched and then the hoodie is sewn together.
You’ve been featured in the Observer, The Time Out Magazine and even making an appearance on “skins”. How did you get your hoodies to appear on the hit TV series?
I guess we create quite photogenic pieces that stand out. It is also the case that in order for people to want to write about what you do, you have to tell them you exist and have a reason, a point of difference to use you ahead of anyone else.
Who would say your target audience is?
My target audience was me, I aimed and based the label around what I like as a starting point because that was easiest. I would not say I have a target audience, I have dressed 14 to 55 year olds and it does depend on fabric, I am not sure pink leopard print is any good for my Dad but because it is a collaboration and customers can tone it up or down to suit individual tastes and personalities.
What would you say about the current state of fashion in the UK?
I think it has been a bit flat over the last few years. Kim Jones was the only person really pushing menswear forward in the UK with new ideas. The recession excites me though. Fashion in Britain has always been best in times of economic decline worldwide. I think we come into our own because we thrive as a nation on pessimism whereas every other nation thrives on optimism so I think the next couple of years will see some great progressive labels emerge.
Kim Jones Fall 07
What’s next in the future for House of Billiam?
Carry on developing the bespoke hoodie giving more choice in cut and fit. Hopefully collaborate with retail, refining and redefining what the hoodie is and what people think of when they think of a hoodie.
And Finally..
Top Five tracks your currently listening to?
Nina Simone – “Funkier Than a Mosquitos Tweeter”
Masta Ace- ”top ten list”
“The first Architecture in Helsinki Album”
Nas – “NY State of Mind”
“Merz first Album”
I don’t listen to much new music sorry…
iPhone or Blackberry ?
iphone, but I am still waiting for it to develop further as it still has its problems…
Up or Down?
Down always down
Nike or Adidas?
Nike…
Steffan from the Klaxon’s wearing House of Billiam
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